The end of a journey – in Istanbul, Turkey

Yes!!!! Have made it - miraculously, incredibly, certainly – to the mega-metropolis that is Istanbul.

The last few days have been pure chaos. Just as the stories and adventures get really interesting, I have fallen behind with blogging and writing. Please know that the poste are in the works! The stories will get to you! … But right now… I must – rest!

Exhaustion is kicking in – just one last thing before I let my eyes shut – THANK YOU!!! Merci, gracias, dziękuję, grazie… And thank you again in every language on earth!

For all your help, your support, your encouragement, your wonderful presence – to those who wonder how I could have cycled and been on the road “alone” for so long, I can only smile when I realize that I was never alone. Not ever.

Words cannot express my gratitude!

Thank you SO MUCH!!!

Days 65, 66, 67 – in photos – 3 day total cycled 262km

My three days cycling in Turkey before reaching Istanbul.

- turkish tourist visa

- crossing the border, tired but excited

- seeing signs for Istanbul does wonders for my motivation. Roads are empty, and spirits high

Cant help but feel like I’m in the Middle East with this barren landscape

This is Erwin, a bicycle traveler on a recumbent, and here we are at our hotel where we met. Erwin is from Bavaria (not Germany) and he’s travelling the opposite loop, from Istanbul to the Danube. We had a great dinner and conversation; I was immensely grateful for his company!

“the gas station boys” – more than once during these past few days I found myself chatting with guys at gas stations, being treated to free coffees and waters as they questioned me eagerly about everything from my monthly wage in Canada and whether or not I believe in God. “we work all the time, and Turks don’t travel much”, one of them explained to me in passable English “this is why we are so curious when we meet foreigners in Turkey”.
The Turks are so polite and helpful that the mini-interrogation sessions are actually quite sweet

The minarets of mosques instead of the steeples of churches. Every village has atleast 1!

Was invited to breakfast when I took a break next to two truck drivers. Turkish hospitality and kindness really is as amazing as they say!!

- lots of picnic tables available if you need to have a snack

…like in a pre-arranged relay race, I handed off the bicycle traveling baton to two guys heading away from Istanbul. It was their first day and my last, and as we took a moment to chat on the side of the road I learned that Louis, American, and William, Australian, are headed to Germany with a very interesting game plan – to not spend a dime or euro during the whole trip. “We basically beg for food” explained William, although not in the sitting-on-pavement-palm-out-stretched kind of way, rather they ask at restaurants and stores for any excess food they might get, and, so far, have eaten more in this way than they do usually. Good luck with your ride guys! (their blog: http://www.thefunkyangloboys.wordpress.com )

- approaching the metropolis from the north, can you see it in the hazy distance?

- the day after – enjoying a luggage-free ride along the bike path on the coast, along Asian side of Istanbul. Oh victory is sweet!!

Day 64 – Burgas to Malko Tarnovo (Bulgaria), 85km

Time to head to the Turkish border. Just a few hundred kilometers away lies the grand metropolis of Istanbul (aka. Constantinopol, Bizantium, Tsarigrad.. this ancient city is known by many names!) and the final destination of this ride.

First, tucked away in a busy cafe, I do some quick research about travel in Turkey, typing in phrases like “solo female travel Turkey” and “bicycle travel Turkey” and quickly absorb some quality tips and info. Bicycle travelers recommend gas stations for free camping (weird but true), Turks are found to be formal, polite and very helpful to tourists, and Western women report pleasant and problem free travel granted you too remain formal and not get too smiley (otherwise they tend to think we are all “Samantha’s” living out our lives like in the “Sex and the City” series…) Ok, duly noted. Also, on a whim, I quickly check Visa requirements for both Poles and Canadians and realize that tourist visas are required for Turkey and come at a fee. I experience a mild panic attack as I face the unanswered question: do you get the tourist visa at the border or do you have to ask for it months in advance??

A few Skype phone calls later, to the embasies in Istanbul of both my countries, and I calm down. Everything is OK to cross the border in Malko Ternovo; visas are attained on site and I’m even told how much they will cost: 15€ on a Polish passport and 45€ on a Canadian one. Kind of a no-brainer as to which passport I’ll be using

The no. 9 secondary road to Malko Tarnovo is fairly peaceful, running mostly through farmland and forest, and very up and down. I like it though – the ups give you time to think and the downs time to leave all thought behind…

I arrive in Malko Tarnovo around 18:00 and so with (theoretical) plenty of time to cross the border and seek lodging on the other side. However, my other Internet searches have revealed nothing as far as camping or cheaper hotels in the Turkish villages nearby (or petrol stations for that matter, if camping there is indeed as wonderful as others make it out to be). I would rather not put myself in an awkward situation my first night in Turkey, so I decide to wait until morning to cross the border.

I stop instead at the only hotel in town, where I’m warmly greeted by one of the employees – an perfectly beautiful woman, about 35 years old with dark hair and almond-shaped eyes. She gives my shoulder a big squeeze when I explain what I am doing and how I come to be here, tonight, at this hotel, on my way to Istanbul. I’m promised a good coffee and an omelette in the morning to give me strength to continue on my way!

Back in my room I relisten to some of my favourite Vinyl Cafe podcasts, this CBC radio show is a treasure and makes me laugh out loud, a lot. It’s a great Canadian connection when I’m far from Canada not to mention chock full of fantastic stories, both true and invented.

It’s been a good day, all in all, full of two of my favourite things: biking and stories

Kasia – your story-telling cyclist

Photos:
- dog at a gas station
- horses living in an abandoned building!